In central Italy there is a rare hidden gem known to many only for its geographical location in the Marche region. Ascoli Piceno is a city of rare beauty that deserves to be seen and appreciated: small and beautiful, not so much for this or that monument, but for its entirety. An enchantment that comes from nothing and from everything. Walking through the narrow streets, still called "rue," where the buildings are countless and open up into small squares, you will perceive this charm. Piazza del Popolo, the small square that gives the impression of a living room, in white travertine, all surrounded by arcades and closed off by the stunning apse of San Francesco, will leave you breathless.
Overlooking it, with all its history, is the ancient Caffè Meletti: one of Italy's historic establishments. Open since 1907, it is known for its refined elegance. In the city, it has always been considered the meeting place for the most illustrious figures, as well as a hub of culture and social life. The special feature of this Ascoli café is tasting the "anisetta con la mosca," that is, the liqueur to which a coffee bean is added inside the glass. For a truly special evening, I recommend dining on the café's terrace and enjoying, in the intimacy of the few tables available, the spectacle of the square below. The second focal point of the city is Piazza Arringo where the medieval baptistery of San Giovanni and the cathedral of Sant'Emidio rise. Inside the latter, not everyone knows that a copy of the Holy Shroud is kept, the original of which is kept in Turin. Initially, the relic was kept in the church of San Francesco in Arquata del Tronto, but following the earthquake, it was decided to keep it safe in the cathedral of Ascoli. The story of this copy is truly fascinating. It is a faithful reproduction of the sacred linen that bears the painting of the same image of the man of the Shroud, scourged and crucified. The sheet shows in the center, in the space between the imprints of the face and the nape, the inscription in block letters «EXTRACTVM AB ORIGINALI» (extracted from the original). The Shroud of Arquata was found during conservation and restoration work on the church dedicated to St. Francis, carried out in the 17th century. The cloth was folded and enclosed in a gilded urn, hidden inside the niche of an altar. There is a parchment dated May 1, 1655, drawn up in Alba, which constitutes its certificate of authentication. The document states that in the same year, in the presence of an appointed commission, in the square of Castelgrande in Turin, a linen sheet of equal size was made to match the Shroud. The relic is considered a precious object of veneration for all believers from Arquata, as its sacredness was derived from direct contact with the Holy Shroud. As for the reasons that led to the creation of the copy of the Holy Shroud, the most plausible theory is that it was intended as a safeguard against possible accidents that might occur to the original, which, moreover, was not owned by the Church but by the House of Savoy.
After all this walking, enjoy a well-deserved break. Go to the Bottega dell'oliva ascolana where you will taste the best fried olive in Ascoli. Prepared and fried on the spot, you will not forget this delicacy of tender stuffed olive that has made this town famous. If you can't get enough of them, don't worry, the Bottega is very well organized. You can take them with you or, more conveniently, have them shipped directly to your home. This way, you will have a delicious souvenir to share during an aperitif with your friends.
For a classy stay in Ascoli, it is a must to stay at the B&B Luxury 700. Inside a noble palace, architect Anna Monini has created a fascinating structure. The ancient library and the only 3 rooms, or rather suites, speak for themselves: details of great value and refinement in an environment that is nothing short of perfect. The library boasts over 500 volumes, including many relating to the city of Ascoli and its territory. You can also play the piano, listen to music, play chess or enjoy other board games kindly provided by the B&B. In this regard, special attention is paid to guests: in your room you will find comics and novels. The suites are a triumph of beauty and tranquility: pastel-colored walls, refined wallpapers reminiscent of those once used by Cardinal De Angelis at the time of the construction of the ancient palace, antique porcelain bedside lamps, soft and refined white curtains, the spacious and well-designed bathroom with refined details and a view of Monte dell'Ascensione, known as "the profile of Dante," will make your stay in Ascoli unforgettable. The rich breakfast with homemade cakes and jams will be served in the beautiful red room directly by the friendly and discreet owner, who will guide you with her advice to discover this hidden gem of Italy.